updates from the road

Autumn has come to central Europe, bringing a lovely orange tint to the trees as well as an intense longing for 온돌 (in floor heating and perhaps my second favorite Korean invention after 한글). It also brings with it an abundance of breaks and random days off wherein I can indulge my incessant wanderlust.

Because I am the luckiest girl in the world (or thereabouts) I have fantastic friends in random countries like, oh I don't know... BULGARIA. So when a long weekend presents itself, clearly I have no choice but to go. Especially with Europe's wonderful abundance of cheaper-than-dirt flights.


We started the weekend in Plovdiv, a town like nowhere I've been before.

We also got to check out the Alexander Nevsky church, which was one of the most striking churches I've ever been to. And I have been to quite a few in my day. Perhaps its the dramatic lighting, or the grand size, or the way the beautifully decorated interior still has a feeling of open, barren, desolate space. Some churches feel more or less like art museums, this one still felt like a place people come to plead with God. I like that.

Sofia is kind of a funny town. They've got random ruins to play in and fancy soldiers to guard the importaint folks, but the Starbucks there is not hurting for customers (the cashier loved my hello kitty wallet) and there's a great little Chinatown nestled next to the old Synagogue.

I also ate some delicious Tarator (cucumber yogurt soup) and sampled shopska (Bulgarian take on the Greek Salad) and had one of the famous meals baked in an earthenware dish.

Then we ventured out to the Rila monastery, which is completely epic and possibly under consideration as the location of Tim Burton's next film.

i've got tons more that I could post, but I'm really trying not to go overboard here. Anyhow we had a great lunch (turns out that Bean Soup Monastery Style is delicious!) and hopped on the bus back to Sofia.

My culinary adventures did not end there, however. Mark also introduced me to Bonitza, that most magical, flaky pastry filled with spinach and cheese. Seriously, so so good. I still crave them occasionally.

I was also finally persuaded to try the local Yougurt drink. Initially describe to me as "kind of a water/yogurt drink with salt" (not a very convincing sell), I finally agreed to taste it (these days, anything that doesn't involve pork product is basically on the table) and its also quite good. You win again, Bulgaria.

Plus, I learned about Chalga music which I could never satisfactorily describe to you. But I'm glad I know of its existence.

Overall, I'd classify my trip to Bulgaria as a great success. I'm quite greatful to Mark for showing me such a lovely time. =)

On my way back through Vienna, pretty much every bad thing that could happen, did. My ring fell off my finger and onto some train tracks. Later I was running for the train, got myself inside before the doors closed but not my backpack and got very very stuck as a result. Both times I was assisted by benevolent Vienese strangers to whom I am extremely thankful. I also broke several nails (not usually something i worry too much about, but it seemed relevant). However, I also ate a really excellent falafel, nabbed a fair-trade latte (I know I know, I'm like a walking stereotype sometimes) and even found an international grocery store run by an extremely friendly indian man. This last was exciting to me because I have been looking for fish sauce for ages, and now that I've found it I can finally attempt the pad Thai recepie Ingrid kindly sent me. All in all, my afternoon in Vienna was probably the closest I'll get to new York city living for quite some time. I'm pretty ok with this. Eastern european adventure #1 complete. Over and out!