Czeching In

first off, I apologize for the pun. its not very witty, and all the czech/check jokes made possible by the english language have long since been played out. but really, it was just too appropriate.

I also need to announce that today is international women's day. I myself was unaware of this fact, until someone mentioned it at lunch today. This launched a round of hand shaking and congratulations among the women (mostly in jest) and a somewhat more serious discussion of how the meaning and celebration of the day has evolved in the CR from communist times (where female workers in factories got red flowers and the men went out and got drunk- in celebration of the women, obviously) to today (when fewer people celebrate it, either because of its associations with communism or just out of indifference). Anyhow, next year I plan to prepare a currently-undecided-but-suitably-badass celebration. Its time we celebrated all that is women properly, don't you think? Suggestions welcome.

As you may have guessed from the title, today's update will be Cesky-centric. Because, really, its about time. I've got four months left here. Gotta make them count.

So, in that spirit, I'd like to recount to you my afternoon adventure at the Kavarna (coffee shop). To understand this story, those of you playing at home (in America) will need two bits of background information. Number one is that in Czech, when you want to pay at a restaurant, bar or cafe you do not pay the bill and leave the tip on the table. Instead, the waiter or waitress brings you your bill and tells you the total, and you respond by telling them how much you will pay (including tip) so they know how much change to give you. (this always feels a bit like an odd version of barganing to me. 25? ok 30. weird.) The second thing you need to know is that in Czech, like in English, the teens and tens are confusingly similar. (Don't believe me? think about it. how many times have you had to ask someone to clarify- fifteen or fifty?)

So, I'm in said Kavarna studying away with my czech notebook and festive assorment of multicolored pens. I finish my coffee and am ready to pay the bill. I walk up confidently, ready to be on my way. This part of the transaction used to make me nervous,  but I've been here long enough that paying and numbers are old hat to me.

"sedumdesat devet" she tells me. (that'll be 79 crowns)

Czech tipping style is to basically round up. this is also something that made me anxious in the beginning, mostly because I feel like i am heinously undertipping even when being generous (by czech standards). Another thing I've since gotten under control. So I think to myself, "ok the bill is 80 crowns. round up to.. 90?"

"devatenáct," I say.

no response. maybe she didn't hear me?

"devatenáct," I say again, making sure to speak up and with a decisive head nod at the end.

a brief pause.

"devadesát?" she offers, helpfully.

... and this is the moment that i realize, I've been offering to pay her 19 crowns (or a little less than 1 USD) to settle my entire bill. Oops. I quickly agree with her, taking the proper amount of change with me. Its a rookie mistake, and I walk out the door laughing out loud at myself, and the comedy of errors that is my life. It may be a mess, but at least its entertaining.

na zdraví! (cheers to that.)